I want to buy a piece, but you're sold out. How can I buy?
My collections are comprised of a limited number of one-of-a-kind pieces. Once the pieces in a collection are sold, they will not be made again. However, I often return to a collection later and create new pieces around the same look and theme. So, if there's a particular collection that speaks to you and it is sold out, there will probably be similar pieces available in the future. Sign up for my email list and follow me on Instagram to be notified when new pieces and collections are available.
I also have a limited number of pieces available for purchase in person or online at the Metal Museum. Please send enquiries directly to the Museum.
When will new pieces be available?
Where do you ship to?
How long will shipping take?
Do you accept custom orders?
At this time, I am not accepting custom orders. Thank you for your understanding.
Will you recreate one of your past pieces for me?
I do not recreate my past designs. However, my work does tend to follow similar themes and motifs which I return to over time. If you check my shop often, you will probably find a piece similar to the one in which you are interested. Follow me on Instagram to be alerted when new pieces and collections are available.
Can I buy just your enamels, without the setting?
No, I'm sorry. I do not sell my enamels separately from my jewelry work.
Is your jewelry made with real precious metal?
All silver in my jewelry is solid, not filled or plated, and is either made of .925 sterling silver, or .999 fine silver. When fine silver is used (typically in work made with the chase and repousse technique), the purity is denoted in the item description.
Gold that is used in my enamels is 24k or 23k gold, either in the form off a foil that is fused within glass, or a layer of 24k liquid gold fused to glass. Note that gold foil is not the same as gold leaf; gold foil is substantially thicker than gold leaf.
When I include gold elements in my metalwork such as gold bezels, earwires, or other design details, I indicate the purity of the gold within the item description.
I also often also use alloys such as solid brass and bronze in my work, which will be indicated in the item description.
How do I figure out my bangle size?
I offer four sizes for my bangle bracelets:
S: 2" Inner Diameter / 6.5" Length
M: 2.25" Inner Diameter / 7" Length
L: 2.5" Inner Diameter / 8" Length
XL: 2.75" Inner Diameter / 9" Length
To measure your hand:
If you cannot measure an existing bangle that you already own, measure your hand. Do so by touching your thumb and pinky together, then wrapping a cloth measuring tape around the widest point of our hand. The bracelet you order should be at least 1/4" larger than this measurement. I have found that plus size women, those with arthritis, or those who prefer a looser fit will likely prefer a size L or XL.
For Metalsmiths and Makers
How did you learn enameling?
I learned the basics of enameling in local workshops at colleges and arts centers as well as from books, online videos, a lot of trial and error, and trying different products from Thompson Enamel. My particular technique is my own, which evolved from my background as an illustrator; I translate my knowledge of traditional illustration media into the materials and tools of enameling.
I would like to learn enameling. Can you tell me where to begin?
I recommend two wonderful books about enameling: The Art of Enameling by Linda Darty and The Fine Art of Enameling by Karen Cohen. I also recommend joining Facebook groups of enamelists, watch online videos and classes, and experiment on your own! Remember to document your findings, and have fun!
How do you create images and paint with enamels?
You can learn more about painting with enamel pigments in these books: The Art of Enameling by Linda Darty and The Fine Art of Enameling by Karen Cohen. Karen Cohen has also shared some of my own techniques for using heat to apply toner resists for etching and my tricks for working with liquid metallics in her online book appendix.
To explore firing and making your own enamel decals (as seen in my Oceans of Suds brooch), I recommend beginning with this SNAG article by Sharon Massey; this article is how I first learned about the technique.
Can you tell me how to learn etching?
I recommend joining the Facebook groups Electroetchers Anonymous and Etchers Anonymous for information and help with beginning etching. These groups provide excellent documentation regarding setup, safety and troubleshooting, and the community of other etchers is extremely generous and helpful.
Karen Cohen has shared my technique for using a laminator to apply toner resists for etching in her online book appendix.
What equipment and chemicals do you use for electro-etching?
Here is a list of the basic supplies and equipment I use in my studio for electroetching. If you do not know how these items are used in electroetching, I cannot answer specific questions, but I recommend you join the Electroetchers Anonymous Facebook group; I learned the process of electroetching from this group.
- I prefer Canon laser printers for creating toner transfers. Any model will do; I also use only Canon replacement ink, not generic.
- PCB Paper (Available from Amazon)
- Tahsen SM330 Laminator (You'll have to search for this; eBay often has this item)
- Asphaltum Varnish (Available from RioGrande)
- Cupric Nitrate (Available from The Science Company)
- 30V Power Supply (This is the one I have, but any brand will work.)
- Thin Copper Sheet (eg: 22-ga.) and/or copper wire (to be used as anodes and cathodes)